Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Dinner on the Rue Mouffetard

Café Le Mouffetard, early morning
After napping for 3 hours, I tidied up and struck out on my own to find a place to eat. Anybody who's been following my previous blogs knows that eating out alone in Paris was one of my biggest worries.

Around the corner from the Hotel du Pantheon is the Rue Mouffetard. I felt as if I had stepped into a wonderland for adults. Along this steep, cobbled street are many hole-in-the-wall restaurants - Middle-Eastern, Seafood, Mexican, Japanese. And Tango de Buenos Aires for those inclined to dance.

Most of Rue Mouffetard is pedestrian-only and lined with with many small chocolate shops, boulangerie,and boutiques selling jewelry, things Tibetan, and a splendid shop called Diwali selling all manner of Indian accessories. Plus a place wittily called Mouffe-Tart!

Monoprix and L'Occitane can be found there as can a Marrionaud Parfumerie. For the community, it hosts a daycare, two libraries and a bowling alley!

Rue Mouffetard is known for its street market which mainly congregates at the bottom of the hill. But because the businesses along the street wheel out their wares onto the cobblestones the whole place feels like a Marché with oysters and cheese and wine; fresh fruit and vegetables on display.

Café Le Mouffetard at 116 rue Mouffetard,  was the place I thought suit me best for dinner. It was just the right mix of casual yet not too boisterous. After securing a seat on the street, I ordered a glass of Bordeaux and a "Croque Blue Bacon Oeuf", that consisted of toasted rye and back-bacon, with Emmenthal and Blue cheese melted over top. Crowning it was a fried egg with the orang-est yolk I'd ever seen.

View from my seat on the terrace

The street has a real old-world community feeling. The waitress had to tote a big bag across the street to Les Chants de Blé to stock up on bread for my Croque and others.

Eugene Atget, the same corner

I was there early, but it was the perfect time for people watching. Children were getting home from school. Younger ones were hand-in-hand with their parents. Very cute and be-satcheled. Parents with food and flowers in their carriers. It was simply wonderful just to breathe it all in.

Juliette Binoche sat here too, as I was able to confirm. Le Mouffetard was the cafe in which her character chose to withdraw in the film Bleu.

À Bientôt


  1. I'm glad you found the café...

    Excellent description of a favorite area. And so close to where you stayed. Wonderful.

  2. Love the "then-and-now" shots. And the fact that Binoche was filmed there in Bleu. Yes, wonderful!

  3. be-satcheled, a nicely concocted word.

    hope you took some photos of the gardens!